When you need a quick meal and the cupboards and fridge are pretty much bare, if you stumble across a bag of potatoes, things instantly start looking up. The choices are almost limitless - boiled, mashed, roast, made into chips or wedges, sautéed, baked, ... You could get a bit more adventurous and knock up a cottage pie, potato fritters, loaded potatoes, fish pie, ... The book does start with these very basic ideas, giving you instructions on making simple side dishes like mashed potatoes, boiled potatoes or chips. A quick flick through the pages may give you the initial impression that it is too simple and way below your level of cooking. Don't give up though, it's definitely worth a closer look.
Chef Stefan Ekengren starts off with an in-depth look at his experience cooking potatoes, leading into a detailed run-through of the various varieties of potato that he likes the most and how they can best be used. It was interesting to read about how some potatoes are floury while others are waxy, but sadly the more in-depth look at some of the 5,000 varieties available ended up largely useless as he focuses on those available to him in Sweden. I'd never even heard of Folva, Snöball or Rättviks röd, let alone seen them on the shelves of the local supermarket.
His Nordic roots come into their own later in the book when he starts sharing recipes though. I'd never even heard of many of the family-friendly, fairly simple dishes that he explains but they really appeal to me. Lobscouse, which looks better than it sounds - a child-friendly mix of mashed potatoes and beef that I will be trying very soon. Löksälta, a very simple but delightful-sounding dish to share with the family. Pitepalt, or meat-filled dumplings. Pickled potatoes - gherkins, onions, even eggs, but potatoes? The idea had never even crossed my mind. Definitely all things that I would like to try.
Other dishes take us out of his Scandinavian homeland and further afield. Papas arragadas from the Canary Islands, potato focaccia from Puglia, Finnish potato casserole, tortilla vaga from Spain, ... So many things to try and you won't even need to use your passport !
Yet more dishes speak to my soul, leaving me wondering why I'd never thought of them. Pressed potatoes, a cheeky twist on roast potatoes that look and sound too good to ignore. Delicate potato roses that look magnificent but sound totally achievable. Salmon pudding, evocative of a delicate potato and fish sandwich that I'm sure the kids would love.
Even as someone who has been eating and cooking with potatoes since my earliest years, the 90-odd recipes in this book had me looking at potatoes in new ways, excited and intrigued about trying this store-cupboard basic in original and totally unimagined ways. With the cost-of-living crisis still biting hard, it's fabulous to find a book of recipes that uses basically everything you already have in the fridge or the cupboards. On the front cover of the book, it says "Timeless Recipes for Every Home Cook". Whatever your level of cooking skills and whoever you are cooking for, I think that's perfectly true.
star rating : 4.5/5
Editor: by Stefan Ekengren
Features: Full colour, hardcover, stitch bound, 192 pages
Format: 18 × 24 cm, 7 x 9 ½ inches
Price: € 35 (D) £ 30 $ 50 (US)
ISBN: 978-3-96704-164-4
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Also available on amazon here.
Disclosure : I received a review copy of the book in order to share my honest opinion.
